Monday 20 June 2016 – Oksfjord to Bjerkvik

Light rain overnight and an early start for Terry who has developed a very painful big toe and could not sleep. Managed to hobble out and walk Jamie but now something else to try and spoil our trip. Take it easy today and see how we get on.

Breakfast then service the van in miserable conditions before heading out again on the E6. We've planned to travel down to Narvik, missing out Tromso which, according to the Rough Guide, doesn't have enough going for it to make the serious diversion worthwhile. From Narvik we'll go out to Lofoten Island where another guide book says we'll find the scenery we're looking for.

A quick stop at a supermarket for essentials then, as the rain eased off, along the coastal road at last finding the scenery we're expecting – long fjords with mountains, pity it's so grey as we're sure in the sunshine it would be gorgeous. Here's a few photos anyway.

Stopped to refuel then shortly after a lunch stop at another rest area with a great view – well it would have been if the sun was shining! Ever onward, encountering quite a lot of roadworks and two new tunnels under construction, but apart from that and the frequent speed cameras we made good progress. It was obvious however that we were only going to get as far as Narvik so we started looking; quite a few “campsites” along the way but all quite expensive for things we didn't need. Tried a lovely looking rest area but it was attached to a hotel so was a no-no, then saw a rest area in our Campercontact database in just the right place, with toilets and free. That'll do us so parked up, more or less by ourselves, and admired the view which was at last being coloured by some sunshine!

Incidentaly, taken at 10.00 pm & sun still high in the sky

Sunday 19 June – Russenes to Oksfjord

Being Sunday we treated ourselves to a later start and, of course, Full English Breakfast! Whilst Bren was clearing up Terry got the damage to the rear number plate sorted out until we can get a replacement, then onto the road south with no destination in mind just south west along the coast for the moment and see what the day throws up.

Initially it was generally very barren with few trees and the grey, but at least clear and dry, morning didn't really help. However once across the peninsular and onto the coast we started seeing more of what we expected Norway to be.

Stopped at the very modern town of Alta for lunch but shortly after leaving we encountered a series of major roadworks on the E6 with diversions, dirt tracks and simply unpaved surfaces – back to Morocco again – but at least they were working today. 

Oops, where's the road gone!

A little later we stopped for a comfort break at one of the many small rest areas near the village of Langfjord (which we thought was an interesting play on words) and this one had waste disposal facilities so, not having been able to empty the tanks at Russenes, we took advantage, not knowing where we'll end up tonight.

Then we had a re-occurence of the engine rough running, misfiring and losing power, not helped by the long steep hill we'd just started to climb. Persevered however and after a few minutes it seemed to clear itself although the engine computer warning light came on. Got an idea of what the problem may be but will need to put the diagnostic checker on the engine later.

Teatime saw us at Oksfjord and after checking out a “campsite” which we thought very expensive for a field with a hut in it, we saw a sign indicating motorhome parking at the “Havn”, or harbour. Only one other van and the advertised cost was much more reasonable – if anybody actually shows up to collect – so we decided to stop. Nice views out along the fjord and plenty of room for Jamie to run around; he's getting a bit stir crazy.

After tea we spent some time planning a route that we hope will show us the best of Norway. The weather forecast isn't brilliant but it seems to be getting warmer so fingers crossed.

Our view tonight

And just for those interested in our internet connection, up to now we've found free wifi everywhere and it's only tonight that we've resorted to the “3” Feel at Home which connected at the second try. As for telephone calls, our Tesco phones also have a “Feel at Home” feature and coupled with the calltime plans we're getting free, yes free, calls home; from Norway, brilliant!

Saturday 18 June – Nordkapp

Cold wet and miserable, not a good portent for the highlight of our trip. An earlyish start and as we had full facilities took the chance to properly service the van, not really knowing what was coming during the next couple of days.

A shortish run up to Nordkapp, following the tourist coaches we'd spotted earlier, but the weather worsened until visibility was down to 50 yards and we were relying on the satnav. So the entrance barrier looming out of the fog nearly caught us out and the nice young man relieved us of NOK520 (£43) which covered all the attractions plus parking for up to 24 hours. The next task was to actually find the carpark and then the entrance – we were obviously in the clouds, it was cold wet and windy – but we could just about make out a large building.

Although Nordkapp isn't physically quite the northernmost point of Europe (you have to hike a further 2/3 hours to a headland about 1.4km further) it has been the accepted point for many years and there is now a large visitor centre. A panoramic cinema, various exhibitions, the northernmost Ecumenical Chapel, several coffee bars and restaurants and of course the obligatory souvenir shop were all inspected before we ventured out to the symbol of Nordkapp, the globe on the headland.

Norwegian Troll (on the left...)

On top of the world!

Which you can probably tell is as much as we saw of the place, to our great disappointment. Hot chocolate and a cake in the Arctic Bar revived us a little and the server did say that although this was the worst they had seen in a few days (yep, that's us!) quite often it changed in minutes. This was not echoed by the cashier in the souvenir shop and in fact the weather forecast showed no change for at least 3 days.

Cruise ships at Honningsvald

Having paid for 24hrs parking, we returned to the van and decided to give it a chance; there were quite a few vans obviously settling in hoping to see the Midnight Sun, but by late afternoon we were cold and miserable so sadly departed, if only to get out of the all-pervading cloud. About an hour and a half down the road we had left the island on which Nordkapp is located, via the 7km long undersea tunnel built, we learn, to make a non-ferry link right up to the northernmost point. There are quite a few campsites along the way, all offering full facilities but charging quite a lot for things we don't actually need. However Norway operates an “open-land” principal which means you are free to use any open space, with certain restrictions. There are small rest areas along the road, quite often with toilets, water etc. which come under this principle and so many motorhomes make use of them. We spotted just such a spot at Russenes, very picturesque in the loop of a bay and found a space to settle down in for the night.

Bay at Russenes - can just see vans parked

Although still dull and grey we are at least free of the cold wet fog so, despite them being soaking wet, deployed the insulating screens for extra warmth as well as to dry them out. Provided we're not moved on we'll take a late start tomorrow after trying to fix the rear number plate.

Friday 17 June – Ivala to Honningsvald

With the electric mozzie killer on all night we weren't bothered by the little darlings, but just as we got up it started to rain which brought them out, so copious application of repellant before anything got done. We really must remember to avoid forested areas for overnighting but fortunately forewarned is forarmed and Bren has been taking anti-histamine so is not suffering.

Once away it was back onto more of the same scenerty and roads, except now it was raining and it didn't stop for the rest of the day. Lunchtime saw us crossing the border into Norway without any form of checking, just drove through the green channel. Almost straightaway, however, we noticed a deterioration in the roads with several sections unsurfaced and apparently under “long term” repair. Shades of Morocco. Coupled with the overall speed limit of 80kph progress was not as fast as we've been used to. Called into a Tourist Info office but they were not very helpful, however we got some money changed.

An hour or so up the road we stopped at a Coop supermarket in Lakselv and had lunch on their carpark (after suitable purchases of course). Then onwards north and, through the mist and clouds, we could see the scenery changing with hills and mountains to be skirted around the sea shore, dotted everywhere with dozens of small islands. Pity the weather was so miserable.

White reindeer

Late afternoon, after deciding to stop around Honningsvald, which is only 35km short of our ultimate destination, we looked for a stopover. Identifying a “site” from one of our databases, we ended up a 1 in 3 shale track to a dead-end with just a wall and no campsite! Then trying to turn round we got well and truly stuck with the luggage rack and towbar jammed into a bank and the front wheels unable to pull us out. Eventually after much head scratching we managed to get off the bank with just a little damage and reversed all the way back down.

Try again and the next place was a wide open car park with full facilities so we finished there, even if it was a tad expensive. Hopefully the rain will stop overnight, we can get the luggage rack sorted and then go on to the real target of the trip, Nordkapp!

Oh yes, think we managed to refill the tank with the most expensive diesel in the world - £1.45/litre!

Thursday 16 June - Santa Claus Village to Ivalo

Lots of vans came in to park last night and many of them were visiting the attraction today. Especially the one parked next to us with two crying children.......

So a little later than normal start, but no facilities here so onward north. The quickest and easiest route to Nordkapp is straight up through Finland; we've been advised it's quicker easier and cheaper than dodging back into Sweden so that's the way we'll go. The roads are now very quiet although we've seen quite a lot of motorhomes, including the inevitable French convoy. Apart from that the odd car and truck every now and again. Scenery is again much of the same but the temperature is soaring – we saw one sign saying 27 deg and it felt like it too in the summer sunshine. We're warmer here, above the Arctic Circle, than we were in Morocco!

Lots of trees and empty roads

Lunch on a supermarket carpark (we needed bread, plus the inevitable few other things) at Sodankyla followed by another refuel, then north watching out for the reindeer, who roam free around here.

First the sign

Then Rudolph

Then the rest of the team

Late afternoon we looked for a stopover between Ivalo and Inari (we noticed that place names now appear to be in two languages – Finnish & Lappi?) and found yet another lakeside place amongst the trees; idyllic but unfortunately the mozzies were out in force so get the repellant out. And for the first time in a long long while we switched the air conditioning on – in the Arctic for heavens sake!

Wednesday 15 June – Seskara to Rovaniemi

Another bright start and after the usual chores away before 11.00. First call to the Tourist Info office in Haparanda to check on dog regulations, which by the time we'd found the office was immaterial anyway because we'd already been in and out of Finland with no checks. Nevertheless they confirmed everything was fine so we went looking for a bank to get some Finnish currency. Doh! It's euros! Changed some Swedish anyway but we've already got euros.

Our site last night was actually on an island.

Never mind, next port of call was to be one of the highlights of our trip, a visit to Santa Claus! Sad aren't we? You would think that such an attraction would be well signposted but we ended up in the middle of Rovaniemi without a clue going round in circles looking for the T.I. Which was signposted but we never found it. In the end we escaped the city and stopped to investigate. TomTom said “yep, know where that is” so we let him get on with it and sure enough about 7km out of the city we came to Santa Claus Village which, of course, is also on the Arctic Circle.

Gone for his break!

It being June and 19 deg C the place wasn't exactly overrun, so we had a bit of lunch then went exploring. As you would expect everything revolves around Santa Claus and our first item was to send postcards and get a few prezzies. Then of course we just had to visit Santa, which was free. But just to prove it we bought the photos and video too – they're nearly as bad as Disney; once we've got it sorted we'll (maybe!) post a link. We're never going to live it down.

The REAL Father Christmas!

Finland is yet another hour ahead of UK time (2hrs) so despite it feeling mid-afternoon everything was closing down. Just enough time for a final couple of purchases then we were directed to an area where we could park overnight and joined several other vans in the evening sunshine. Because we're at the Arctic Circle, of course, the sun will probably never set properly now!

Tuesday 14 June – Robertsfor to Seskaro

A better start today into another bright clear morning – well it's actually been bright and clear all night, never got dark!

Need to make more progress today so with essentials completed it's back onto the E4 for the long drag towards Finland, which is todays target. Again most of the scenery is trees, interspersed with views of the coast and the many rivers/inlets. We've started to notice habitation amongst the trees, usually first evidence being a line of post boxes on the side of the road. Occasionally, too, an industrial unit has been built hidden amongst the trees. And as we're no longer on the motorway, the road takes us through the towns to show us more of traditional Sweden. Clean, modern but in the traditional style of wood built houses with wooden shingles, mostly in the rich dark brown colour but also pastels and a very nice smoky grey too.

Nice wide clear and empty roads

Don't see this roadsign in the UK much

We think they're livestock shelters

Made a lunch stop at one of the supermarket chains, this time Willys, where we took the opportunity of topping up the fridge and as we left, filling the fuel tank again. Despite there being adequate fuel stations we're not going to let fuel get too low.

With traffic now very light we made good progress but decided we'd stop for the night just short of the Finnish border so once again selected something from one of the signposts. Seskaro Camping turned out to be almost identical to the last two sites we've stayed at with all facilities and lovely positioning, right on the coast. Well not too close because the midgies come out at teatime! Once again, although we've had a few rain showers this afternoon, the sun has come streaming through and it's a beautiful evening.

We're not too sure about taking the dog into Finland so the site receptionist has recommended we go visit the customs office before we cross. Apparently the twin border towns of Haparanda (Sweden) and Tornio (Finland) were built specifically to make a border crossing when Finland was still a Russian protectorate. We're looking forward to investigating and will also visit the (joint) Tourist Information office.