Thursday 30 June - Frederiksvaerke

Having sort of got used to it not getting dark, last night we closed all the blinds fully so we were somewhat surprised at the time when we got up. Not even Jamie had stirred and as there are very few people staying on site at the moment nothing disturbed us - we'd got used to the nearby level-crossing warning bells every 10-15 mins.

A greyish day with rain, as forecast again, threatening. Once again the awning was deployed (we rarely leave it out overnight) enabling us to air the van out but, having decided we'll take Jamie for a walk into the town, the showers returned so relaxation in the van was the order of the day. However after a late lunch the sun came out again so, carrying waterproofs just in case, we sallied forth to investigate the town and maybe do a little shopping.

Frederiksvaerke really doesn't have much going for it, it's a very nice but ordinary dormitory town typical of Denmark with a pedestrianised main shopping street having everything you would ordinarily need. Despite being on the Roskilde Fjord there doesn't seem to be any maritime connection, water being limited to a canal/river running through the town. However it has suited us for our purpose.

Late on pack everything away and showers, ready for a, hopefully, earlier getaway in the morning. We've no particular objective, just take the pretty way and enjoy whatever we find.

Wednesday 29 June - Frederiksvaerke

We plan to do absolutely nothing today, short of the essentials and sit in the sun. Unfortunately the weather had different ideas and mid-morning the heavens opened, but we had already deployed the awning and as there was little wind it was pleasant enough sitting out watching a steady stream run off the end.

But all good things come to an end and mid-afternoon the rain stopped and the sun came out for the rest of the day. So apart from taking Jamie for his walkies that was that, job done.

Tuesday 28 June – Gotteborg to Frederiksvaerke

The rock concert, which sounded like it was supposed to be a Bruce Springsteen tribute, ended around 11.00pm so it did not disturb us and after a peaceful night awoke to discover we were “camped” in the car park of a nature reserve – explains why it wasn't busy overnight or first thing. No facilities so after breakfast back to our old friend the E6 heading for Malmo. Bright and sunny again as most mornings have been but this time it stayed that way all day.

Approaching Malmo we stopped for lunch and to refuel. We could have used a short ferry crossing between Helsingborg (Sweden) and Helsingor (Denmark) but earlier research suggested it was as costly as the bridge and last night an internet search said it was closed, which apparently it isn't. So we went for the bridge/tunnel again and just followed the motorway, stopping only at the toll booth to pay our Dkr780 before entering Denmark with no controls whatsoever. Contrast that with the other direction when it was the only place we were checked.

First part is a bridge.......

...which then dives underwater!

Not having had a “break” since Mo I Rana we felt it was time to take a few days off so a little bit of research showed that North Zealand, the area north of Copenhagen, seemed to have quite a lot going for it with a choice of campsites. So we set TomTom for a likely looking spot at Frederikssund and set off across country, immediately noticing how much more relaxed Denmark seemed to be, although to be fair to Sweden we had been on motorways all the time. The site at Frederikssund turned out to be a marina with an area set by for motorhomes, of which there were none although two turned up just as we decided it wasn't what we were looking for for a few nights stop.

A small clutch of sites showed at Frederiksvaerke, just to the north and we headed for the first. Turning into the road leading to the site we were immediately impressed and decided that this would do nicely. In fact there was hardly anybody staying here but we booked in for 3 nights anyway and chose a lovely pitch in an open space which would give us full sun all day but with trees surrounding, providing protection. Kettle on, chairs out and enjoy the late afternoon sun followed by tea then a long chat with a Danish family camped in tents next to us taking a long weekend break.

Although it was clear when we turned in, the forecast is for rain over the next couple of days just about everywhere but we have all we need and plan on just doing nothing now for a couple of days.

Monday 27 June – Eidvolls to Gotteborg (Gothenburg)

Peacefull night – the planes stopped about 11.00 pm – and a fine bright warm day. After breakfast discovered that a coach had just emptied its toilet all over the service point and Terry went to remonstrate with the German woman driver, who didn't seem to be bothered. Managed to avoid the worst to get ours done, but Terry is quite surprised because German coach drivers are usually very professional.

Back onto the E6 and called in for fuel at the next available, which for a change turned out to be the cheapest we've seen in Norway. It would have been cheaper still in Sweden but the red warning light was on............ Gave Bertie a tankful of the super diesel again but I don't think it's doing much good for our problem (although fuel consumption has noticeably improved).

Approaching Oslo it started to rain and coupled with the road works and very busy traffic it was not a particularly pleasant transit; we saw little of Norways' capital city but to be fair we're not city people and again our Rough Guide didn't give us much inspiration. Maybe another time.

Once clear of Oslo the road was motorway pretty much all the way to the border with not a lot to see and we only slowed briefly as we crossed. The E6 is European road numbered so we stuck with it into Sweden and shortly stopped for a lunch break on a rest area. A little further on we stopped again, this time for a supermarket to replenish our supplies; we could have done it earlier but shopping is cheaper in Sweden, viz all the Norwegian registered cars in the carpark.

More motorway, but with thoughts of our overnight stop we diverted off to investigate three likely looking campsites, with a view to maybe stopping a couple of nights. In the end we did not like the look of any of them so returned to the motorway to head for Gotteborg, which offered several ideas including a dedicated motorhome park. But once again roadworks took a hand and completely flummoxed TomTom who got us onto a building site and then went round in circles! Even Autoroute was having apoplexy so we just tried to get back onto a main road somewhere and eventually TomTom got his act together and took us to the parking area.

Which was full! (include here you're own profanity!) However there was a large carpark adjacent where several motorhomes had decided to stop so we joined them. A lot cheaper than the motorhome park too. The only niggle is as I write this there is some kind of rock concert going on nearby (it sounds rubbish); hopefully it won't go on too late.

Lots of bridges - this was a particularly nice one.

Sunday 26 June – Halland to Eidsvoll

A rather later getaway than usual, thanks to bacon & eggs then a problem with Jamie who was having “poo” problems and fought off our attempts to help him; we got our way in the end though (or should I say his end!).

Dull but dry and warm we carried on south, increasingly frustrated by Sunday drivers – Norwegians tend to be somewhat laid back – and the vagaries of the traffic system. It also doesn't help when it is next to impossible to overtake as the roads are very bendy as well as up and down. We hadn't really noticed until Bren spotted the altimeter reading on Autoroute approaching 3000 ft.

Not really needing a lunch break we pushed on. Passing Lillehammer, another unremarkable town, it quickly clouded over and we encountered heavy rain showers – Terry got the blame for washing the windows and cleaning off the dead flies this morning. We had hoped to clear Oslo tonight but the E6 is very slow – that is until we encountered the only motorway in Norway, and a very expensive one it is too. Serves us right because Autoroute did offer us an alternative that was toll-free.

Around teatime, after a quick comfort stop, we started planning our overnight. Clearly we were not going to get past Oslo so we identified a restplatze and programmed TomTom, who then decided to play silly b-----s, took us off the motorway and back on the other way, which wouldn't have been so annoying if we hadn't had to pass through a toll point a second time. But when we arrived it was no good so turn round, past the toll for the third time and eventually got to the one we should have been on in the first place. It's only a parking section of a service area but will do us fine. For entertainment, we're on the final approach path for Oslo airport, about 3 miles by the height of the aircraft but they won't go on all night..........

Saturday 25 June – Harran to Halland

Bit of a late start into a bright warm blue-sky day. A couple of things needed sorting before we left including trying to clean up a slightly dirty pooch, who was having none of it! Nevertheless we were away just after mid-day, topped up the fuel tank then after perusing the map thought a small deviation towards the coast might be more scenic, as indeed it was but still no “traditional” narrow sided fjords!

Lot of ski slopes in Norway

Never mind,back onto the E6 and head for Trondheim. We're now entering a more populated area of Norway and encountering more towns and villages, which is playing havoc with driving because the speed limits seem to change at a whim and few agree with TomTom so Terry was having to pay a lot of attention, which in the glorious bright sunshine was someewhat tiring.

Getting a bit hazy

A welcome stop just after the town of Steinkjer, then through the Tunnel to Hell – yes there is actually such a place – and now encountering toll stations at fairly regular intervals. Interesting to note that the cost for the van is three times that of a car!

Think someone took a wrong turn!

As the afternoon progressed the skies gradually clouded over, although it remained very warm. By 6.00 pm – again very late for us but you forget about the time when the sun doesn't set – Terry had had enough especially as the motor was playing up again. Unfortunately all the picnic areas were full of lorries who, like many European countries, do not appear to be allowed on the roads on Sunday, so we had to settle once again for a campsite, although Halland Camping was not quite as expensive as others we've stayed at.

Just an aside about these campsites; apart from pitches for tents, caravans and motorhomes they nearly all have cabins to rent and often rooms as well. The facilities always include a kitchen too so travellers of all kinds are well catered for – just as well seeing the number of cyclists, motor cyclists and hikers we've seen along the way.

Bren headed off for the showers only to discover why this site is cheaper – showers is extra, a lot extra! Never mind we've a perfectly good shower on board so stuff 'em.

Oh yes - mileage passed 4000 as we stopped tonight!

Friday 24 June – Mo I Rana to Harran

Rain during the night but dry and bright at getting up time. Unfortunately Terry was poorly again so a visit to a doctor was priority. Thus after breakfast and servicing we asked the receptionist who suggested we visit an Apotek (pharmacy) first who could then direct us to someone who would not require an appointment. Everybody extremely helpful but by the time we found the medical centre it was closed for lunch – 11.30 to 12.00! Ah well, hang around a bit then details and a sample were taken with instructions to come back at 13.30, so found somewhere safe to park for a couple of hours and had lunch.

Returned and saw the doctor who diagnosed the problem and organised a prescription. In Norway you are supposed to pay for a visit to a doctor but the payment machine wouldn't accept any of the 5 cards Terry was carrying – but it did say if payment was not made today an invoice would be sent. Well we'll just add that to the toll charges we're going to get too. Round to an Apotek and job done.

It was now 2.30 pm and the day had turned out to be sunny and very warm so it was time to make some progress south. The E6 was busy, not helped by more roadworks and then a 5 mile tunnel being closed requiring a 10 mile diversion over a pass. Obviously such work needs to be carried out in the summer months and all credit that Norway is spending a lot of money upgrading its roads.

Our route took us south along a valley between two mountain ranges, down the centre of the country (which at one point was only a few kilometres from Sweden) and mostly away from the coast. Nevertheless the scenery was still superb, made better by bright sunshine which of course lasts well into the evening so it was no problem to keep going and try to make up a little lost time.

However come 6.00 pm we'd about had enough and were looking to stop, but all the picnic areas were either full or had signs prohibiting overnight parking. Eventually we were more or less forced to use another campsite, once again paying through the nose for facilities we did not need, although Camping Harren is very nice with a lovely riverside location – watch out for the mozzies though!

We've begun to feel that things are slowly turning around and perhaps the world isn't against us after all. With Terry already feeling better and no further problems with Bertie we have started to think again about our intentions, although weather is going to be the big decider.

Thursday 23 June – Mo I Rana

We took the decision late last night to stay an extra night here and have a non-driving day. This would also allow us time to catch up and have a bit of a cleanup as well – we haven't stopped for around 9 days so we need a break.

So it was a nice surprise to wake to brilliant sunshine and a rapidly rising temperature. The site, which had been quite full when we went to bed, was now almost empty again (but late afternoon it filled up again, obviously a popular stopover). Looking at it with fresh eyes it seems to be almost new, or at least in the throes of a total revamp with the facilities building barely finished and many of the plots being upgraded with paved runways for wheels and water and electric at every pitch. The lad on his motor mower was going all day too.

After breakfast Bren got some washing on the go and had a cleanup inside whilst Terry got the chairs and screens, which had got soaked on the rear rack, out and dried off. An attempt to wash the outside was thwarted when the site owner/manager came across and told Terry off. Never mind, we'll find a car wash somewhere.

With the temperature recorded at 27 C we spent the rest of the day relaxing in the sun, a nice change from the past few days. However the increased temperatures and humidity brought on the inevitable late afternoon thunderstorm, although everything had dried out and was being packed away when it started so no problems and we enjoyed a late tea watching the rain. But by 9.00 pm it had all dried up and the sky cleared to end the day very pleasantly – although it still doesn't get dark; we're only just south of the Arctic Circle!

Wednesday 22 June – Ulsvag to Mo I Rana

Wind got up during the night with a shower of rain but by getting up time it was nice and bright again. After the usual on our way out Bren called into the village mini-market for bits and pieces whilst Terry tried to get fuel; unfortunately the automated pump system was broken. Not to worry we've got enough to get to Fauske, where we hope to get the gas bottles refilled as well – one ran out a couple of nights ago.

Once again the weather rapidly deteriorated and the motor was still playing up but we persevered along the busy but still quite fast E6 and entered Fauske just as the fuel warning light came on. Found the LPG station (they are few and far between in Norway) and then to a garage to refuel. As it was available we thought a tankful of “super-diesel” might be an idea to see if that helps our problem.

The plan now was to head towards Bodo, possibly visit the Norwegian Aviation Museum then continue around the coast the pretty way. But with increasingly heavy rain and the engine still occasionally misfiring we gave it up and after a lunch stop turned round to head back to Fauske and then take the main road south. Pity because we'd come through a toll section and had to go back through it. Whilst stopped Terry had put the analyser onto the engine which indicated a problem we might need professional assistance for, so we're going to head for Trondheim and if necessary find a Fiat garage there.

Green roofs

The E6 is undergoing quite extensive roadworks so we encountered a few delays. However the rain stopped and it became quite a pleasant scenic drive. Of course we also encountered the Arctic Circle, this time going south, and the inevitable visitor centre which had to be visited and purchases made in the souvenir shop, plus photos taken.

Just to get him in the picture!

Russian Monument 1940-45

Bit cool around here!

We could have stayed overnight here, after all it was 7.00 pm by the time we left, but it was very cold and there was no shelter from the fresh breeze at 2000 ft, so we pushed on, seeking out another of the picnic spots that we've seen plenty of. However the few we encountered all had signs forbidding overnight parking so continued to Mo I Rana where there was supposed to be free parking – but it was now a shopping centre car-park! However we had passed a sign for Mo I Rana Camping so backtracked and found a very pleasant riverside campsite, if a little expensive even without the option of electricity, and as it was now well after 8.00 pm we called it a day. The latest we've ever stopped anywhere!

Tuesday 21 June – Bjerkvik to Ulsvag

Have you ever had the feeling that the world is conspiring against you? Ever since we've arrived in Norway nothing has gone right, from poor weather to van problems. Having planned todays route to include a longish ferry crossing last night, around 3.00 am the wind got up and blew a gale. Now high winds mean rough ferry crossings.... You'll see what else we mean as we go on. To be fair the day started brilliantly and we enjoyed some great views as we made our way to Lofoten Island where we'd been told we would experience some of the finest scenery. 

But it wasn't long before Mother Nature took a hand with lowering clouds and mist turning into heavy rain. Then the motor started playing up again but wouldn't clear properly this time; nevertheless we struggled on knowing we were at least headed for a largish town where, if necessary, we could try and get some help.

Next the tyre pressure warning system, unheard since Germany, announced that we were losing pressure in the nearside rear tyre – except it occasionally changed its mind. Stopping to check, whilst at the same time trying to clear the engine fault, everything looked okay but by now it was bleaching down and we were starting to lose confidence. There were lots and lots of motorhomes going both ways, but then we noticed a few that had been going in our direction were coming back. That did it; not being able to see anything and the forecast indicating at least another 2 days before any improvement made the decision quite easy and at the next roundabout we turned round and headed back.

As you would expect Norway has a lot of bridges and tunnels. One of the most notable we used (twice) today was 6.4km long and actually descended under the sea, then passed under another island, then more sea before climbing back up to the surface.

Rather than head all the way back to Narvik, we noticed a short ferry crossing about halfway up so decided to go that way – saved us well over 150km and half a days driving although not exactly cheap. At the port, a boat was waiting and pulled out within 15mins of us boarding for an hours very smooth crossing, giving us a chance for coffee and cake. And as we landed the sun came out!

With the tyre pressure warning getting worse we stopped and did a proper check – of course no problem, just a failing sensor (battery flat we suspect). And we also realised that the motor was running nice and smooth again. So now it being quite late we picked out a couple of overnights and chose a campsite at Ulsvag with a lovely pitch overlooking the fjord and across to the Lofoten Wall – the very high range of steep mountains the island is noted for.

View from the van tonight

The Lofoten Wall

It seems once we decided to turn round, everything started to go right again – or is it just us?

Monday 20 June 2016 – Oksfjord to Bjerkvik

Light rain overnight and an early start for Terry who has developed a very painful big toe and could not sleep. Managed to hobble out and walk Jamie but now something else to try and spoil our trip. Take it easy today and see how we get on.

Breakfast then service the van in miserable conditions before heading out again on the E6. We've planned to travel down to Narvik, missing out Tromso which, according to the Rough Guide, doesn't have enough going for it to make the serious diversion worthwhile. From Narvik we'll go out to Lofoten Island where another guide book says we'll find the scenery we're looking for.

A quick stop at a supermarket for essentials then, as the rain eased off, along the coastal road at last finding the scenery we're expecting – long fjords with mountains, pity it's so grey as we're sure in the sunshine it would be gorgeous. Here's a few photos anyway.

Stopped to refuel then shortly after a lunch stop at another rest area with a great view – well it would have been if the sun was shining! Ever onward, encountering quite a lot of roadworks and two new tunnels under construction, but apart from that and the frequent speed cameras we made good progress. It was obvious however that we were only going to get as far as Narvik so we started looking; quite a few “campsites” along the way but all quite expensive for things we didn't need. Tried a lovely looking rest area but it was attached to a hotel so was a no-no, then saw a rest area in our Campercontact database in just the right place, with toilets and free. That'll do us so parked up, more or less by ourselves, and admired the view which was at last being coloured by some sunshine!

Incidentaly, taken at 10.00 pm & sun still high in the sky

Sunday 19 June – Russenes to Oksfjord

Being Sunday we treated ourselves to a later start and, of course, Full English Breakfast! Whilst Bren was clearing up Terry got the damage to the rear number plate sorted out until we can get a replacement, then onto the road south with no destination in mind just south west along the coast for the moment and see what the day throws up.

Initially it was generally very barren with few trees and the grey, but at least clear and dry, morning didn't really help. However once across the peninsular and onto the coast we started seeing more of what we expected Norway to be.

Stopped at the very modern town of Alta for lunch but shortly after leaving we encountered a series of major roadworks on the E6 with diversions, dirt tracks and simply unpaved surfaces – back to Morocco again – but at least they were working today. 

Oops, where's the road gone!

A little later we stopped for a comfort break at one of the many small rest areas near the village of Langfjord (which we thought was an interesting play on words) and this one had waste disposal facilities so, not having been able to empty the tanks at Russenes, we took advantage, not knowing where we'll end up tonight.

Then we had a re-occurence of the engine rough running, misfiring and losing power, not helped by the long steep hill we'd just started to climb. Persevered however and after a few minutes it seemed to clear itself although the engine computer warning light came on. Got an idea of what the problem may be but will need to put the diagnostic checker on the engine later.

Teatime saw us at Oksfjord and after checking out a “campsite” which we thought very expensive for a field with a hut in it, we saw a sign indicating motorhome parking at the “Havn”, or harbour. Only one other van and the advertised cost was much more reasonable – if anybody actually shows up to collect – so we decided to stop. Nice views out along the fjord and plenty of room for Jamie to run around; he's getting a bit stir crazy.

After tea we spent some time planning a route that we hope will show us the best of Norway. The weather forecast isn't brilliant but it seems to be getting warmer so fingers crossed.

Our view tonight

And just for those interested in our internet connection, up to now we've found free wifi everywhere and it's only tonight that we've resorted to the “3” Feel at Home which connected at the second try. As for telephone calls, our Tesco phones also have a “Feel at Home” feature and coupled with the calltime plans we're getting free, yes free, calls home; from Norway, brilliant!